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Pabst Smear - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Rock
6 bolts to chains
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

This route is sustained 9+ to 10a (10b according to 2003 Boise Climbs) with lots of stemming and smearing. A slight overhang on top at the crux. A great climb to learn stemming techniques.

Submitted by: psycho547 on 2005-09-19
Views: 686
Route ID: 20560

15 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: davidaw on 2013-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Super fun climb

very interesting climb.. lots of stemming all the way up! Definitely do this one. Well bolted too

Added: 2013-03-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Matt_Akers on 2011-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Tick

Paging Dr PalmsNCalfsBurner. If Velcro Fly is 10b then this little bundle of joy is probably a pinch on the sandbagged side. Think of any move. Got it? You do it on this route.

Added: 2011-10-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DDH on 2011-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Most fun ten in carbody

I'm new to the area, but I felt like the lower section was much harder than the top "crux". Maybe it's just a style thing, but the balanced smears and insecure palms were the highlight of the route and were much harder (and heady) than the one move at the top. Anyhow, like I said, I'm new to the cliffs and to Basalt (have typically climbing on steep sandstone) but this one was great

Added: 2011-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DanSimenc on 2010-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Top notch stemming and smearing

The upper crux is good, but the lower dihedral is the true gem.

Added: 2010-07-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: TomSimenc on 2010-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fantastic

learn how to palm smear

Added: 2010-07-05

... Read all 15 ascent notes