Right of Schizo. Surmount a small overhang with an undercling. Then easier vertical to a puzling slab. Follow arete on hidden holds from left of slab. Interesting and recomended climbing. There are rests between the hard sections. 10b if you know where the holds are.
Submitted by: bodhitree on 2006-05-21
Route ID: 76812
Fun route filled with a variety of cool moves but certainly not .11a as stated in some guides. I think .10c is fair. The lower crux between the second and third bolt can be hard if you miss the key side pull just below the second bolt. The second crux is more obvious, then its fun crack climbing to the top.
I lead this onsight a few years ago and used gear about 50% of the time, though it is all bolted. One could use gear on about 75% of the route, clipping the odd bolt here and there. The difficulty seemed about 5.10a/b to me at the time. Clipping all the bolts and not bothering with the gear would titlt it to the 5.10a side of things. A nice route and a bit longer than is typical for this area. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, Washington