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Standard North Face - WI2

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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We took pickets and ice screws, but didn't use them (opted to solo route).
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI2 M2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Followed route 1 description in the Lopez book. Nice neve snow, bit of post holing, some ice in the final coulior leading to the summit. Steep snow on topout, probably around 60 degrees for a couple body lengths. 7/11/04

Submitted by: brianinslc on 2004-07-12
Views: 1227
Route ID: 55813

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty WI2 M2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: elvislegs on 2009-10-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Long Day

Great to finally have success on this thing! Great, great route. Lots of snow as of 10/17/09. Got into snow fairly low on the approach, and climbed through between 6" and 18" of snow in various states of consolidation throughout the route and descent. We soloed neve, easy alpine ice, and snow covered choss up to the exit couloir. Couloir had a little ice, but it was pretty thin and brittle. 1-2" dinner plates on top of broken limestone. Dusty lead the final pitch slinging blocks and pounding two good knife-blades. Descent was an exhausting, wet, snow slog. Post-holing down the steeper slopes and climbing carefully on rock and snow across chickenout. 16 hours car to car. Very long day. Wish I had brought a lightweight stove and pot to brew up. My bottles were dry by the time we topped out.

Added: 2009-10-19