Followed route 1 description in the Lopez book. Nice neve snow, bit of post holing, some ice in the final coulior leading to the summit. Steep snow on topout, probably around 60 degrees for a couple body lengths. 7/11/04
Submitted by: brianinslc on 2004-07-12
Route ID: 55813
Great to finally have success on this thing! Great, great route. Lots of snow as of 10/17/09. Got into snow fairly low on the approach, and climbed through between 6" and 18" of snow in various states of consolidation throughout the route and descent. We soloed neve, easy alpine ice, and snow covered choss up to the exit couloir. Couloir had a little ice, but it was pretty thin and brittle. 1-2" dinner plates on top of broken limestone. Dusty lead the final pitch slinging blocks and pounding two good knife-blades. Descent was an exhausting, wet, snow slog. Post-holing down the steeper slopes and climbing carefully on rock and snow across chickenout. 16 hours car to car. Very long day. Wish I had brought a lightweight stove and pot to brew up. My bottles were dry by the time we topped out.