This is an 8 pitch route (50m pitches), that was bolted by hand, on lead by Bob Gentry, Todd Chavez, and Jason Cronk over a couple summers. The route is approximately 75 feet left of the Regular Route. As the route was put up from the ground-up, it is run-out somewhat. We'd decided it's most accurately rated as a 5.10+R. The bolts were drilled where they were needed though. It's the easier pitches that are run-out. If you climb directly over the bolt line on the 6th and 7th pitches, it goes at mid-5.10 in difficulty. A couple feet right or left and it's 5.9. Rapping the route is the best way down (clean rope pulls). currently being re-equipped with a couple of new bolts and better hardware everywhere. The runouts, however, will remain.
Submitted by: elvislegs on 2005-06-27
Route ID: 15586
I enjoyed this line. The bolt placements are perfect. Bring small cams and long slings if you want to supplement the sometimes spaced-out bolts. The upper pitches are particularly clean and steep(er). A couple notes: the anchors at the first pitch are on a hallow sounding flake that may come off sometime, if they were moved a few feet lower it would be a safer, though more uncomfortable belay. Also, several of the lead and anchor bolts are loose. I finger tightened several but maybe someone should bring up a wrench.
This is a great route but its no sport route I took a 10 footer onto a 1/4'' buttonhead scary caracter building. this day scott and I climed all three of the routes on slick rock 20 pithces and 24 rappels awesome my feet still hurt.