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Freudian Slip - 5.11a

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Description:

high quality edges with a "genie" rest midway

Submitted by: crackwhore on 2002-07-23
Views: 278
Route ID: 20862

1 Ascent Recorded

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Flash Flash ascent by: guidebook on 1999-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

On of the best climbs ever bolted on the planet. The bottom moves are all linked with barrel of money straight arms and perfect notched edges for feet. Half way up, reach out left to the bottom of an in cut triangle, where you can genii rest, then move up into it and you can knee lock for a no hands rest. Then up to bomber flacks, where you can stem out and shake out. Now youíre looking at the head wall, where the 11a crux awaits. I throw for the u shape, where the bucket is on top while my fingers of my left hand are lock in a weird mail box slot by rocking up right on my right foot standing on a dark small edge, then right arm wing the top to clip the chain and cold shut. If youíre worried about not being able to finishing this climb don't, because you can lasso the cold shut before the crux by throwing a loop of rope and hooking on to it and finish your led threw the crux on top rope, same on pretty woman. No ego here, Iím only interested in having a good time. PS I also sell stick-clipping videos only the names of the actors have been changed to protect the innocent from the egomaniacs.

Witnessed by: Doug Heinrick
Added: 1999-05-29