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Myopia - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Doubles up to #3 Camalot. Lots of tiny stoppers.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Eleven pitches of sustained, thin cracks on featured granite in a beautiful alpine setting. crux is hard for 11a.

Submitted by: joe on 2003-09-19
Views: 1459
Route ID: 39547

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2010-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Introduction to the Area!

Ok... that's more than a bit of a sandbag! We went up this our first day based on the 11- grade. Well the crux is pretty committing and stout and feels harder for sure than 11a. Probably would have fallen if it weren't for the 3 fixed nuts that gave me the confidence to push on through. This follows the general trend we found at the perch... fixed pro on the hard stuff. A great route overall.. pretty sustained and gives you some great positions up on the wall... like the 5.9 roof you traverse up and out of... very cool!

Added: 2010-08-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ascanio on 2004-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing route

Good pro, amazing climbing on perfect rock in a breathtaking setting.

Added: 2008-04-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bellatoris on 2004-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-09-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: joe on 2003-08-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

like WHOA. awesome route in a beautiful alpine setting. ari sent but i hung a couple of times on the cruxes. i'm actually kind of glad i did so now i have more reason to go back and redpoint this incredible route. i'd prolly take doubles from #1 stopper up to 2 camalot/3 friend size and one 3 camalot for a rack nextime, maybe a two or three extra small cams.

Witnessed by: ari
Added: 2003-08-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: guidebook on 1997-09-24 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The climb has excellent protection even though one crux, the under cling traverse approached via a ramp, only fit two cams of the four on both placements. This did not bother us. The other crux had bomber #9, and other Stoppers, and 1 1/2 inch friend placements; only I was in the middle of three and tied on to two ropes. I clipped the hale line attached to Bill instead of the yellow rope attached to Mark for the last 3 placements of 7 heading into the crux. When I fell I shot out onto the bare wall and took a 50-foot leader fall. The heat from sliding down the wall put small blood blisters on my toes and tips of my fingers. I could hear the rope ripping threw the gear and Bill screaming because he was feeding the second rope out to reduce rope drag. Ripping the rope threw his fingers gave him white burn marks on his hands. I have climbed this route many times; it is clean, good belays, and exciting. To air is only human.

Witnessed by: Bill Boyle
Added: 1997-09-24

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