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Routes : North America : United States : Illinois : Central : Buffalo Rock State Park

Buffalo Rock State Park

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Climbing Sections:

About Buffalo Rock State Park:

This area has a lot of potential for becoming a great place to top-rope, trad climb, and crack climbing. Right now not much is developed out there, but still a great place to get outside and practice crack climbing. In the main climbing, area which is behind the Snake Indian mound, it is incredibly shady and cool. This makes it a great spot to go climb for a few hours in the shade. This place is usually uncrowded due to most of the attention being drawn to its sister park Starved Rock. Rock quality can be pretty poor in sections so stick to the cracks for good climbing. Camping - Camping is closed right now. There are three primitive camping areas along the trail between Buffalo Rock and Utica. The campsites have fire rings but no water or restroom facilities are available. Sites are accessible by walk or bike in only, no vehicular access is allowed. One of the camping areas designed for youth camping has a shelter with a fireplace. There are no campsites to reserve. Just open areas where people camp.
Nearest town or city: Ottawa, IL
Directions: From Ottawa: From Rte. 6 turn south on W.D. Boyce Memorial Dr. Continue on Boyce to Ottawa Ave. and turn right. Proceed on Ottawa Ave., which becomes Dee Bennett Rd for approximately three miles, the park is located on the left and the I&M Canal Access area is on the right. From Utica: Take Dee Bennett Rd. east five miles to Buffalo Rock. Approach to the main is quite simple. Walk on the main trail that goes out to the "Effigy Tumuli". Right behind the Snake mound walk to the edge to see all the cliffs.
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues: None that I have encounter.
Camping: No
When to Climb: Autumn Spring Summer Winter
Quantity of Climbs: Weekend