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Routes : North America : United States : Illinois : South : Cedar Bluff : Playground Wall : Let's Play Doctor/ Itty Bitty

Let's Play Doctor/ Itty Bitty - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
bolt; chain anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Right of the obvious chimney/crack climb; bouldery start to first bolt. Start either directly straight up, or start slightly left of the bolt line, mistakenly thinking it'll be easier. Very thin and strenuous right away, and it even overhangs up higher for those of you who need more torture. Some moves require high steps, too. At the middle, you'll have a choice of going up left or right; either way is no easier than the other. Rough texture and 'itty bitty' pebbles will take off the outer layers of skin if you have to work it for long. Big pump on thin holds.

Submitted by: jds100 on 2003-01-19
Views: 851
Route ID: 7946

7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brendon on 2013-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Redemption

After taking a 20 foot whipper after the crux on this thing due to pump a few months back I finally got back on it and after working the moves out on top rope I was able to finally get the lead clean on the first attempt of the day!

Added: 2013-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tickbite on 2009-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2011-08-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Seibert on 2011-02-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ...

...

Added: 2011-02-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bnoble on 2008-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ascent note

Fun route. Second go. Stick clipped the first bolt the first time to get an idea for what the holds were like for the first clip, and I hate stick clipping. I also skipped the last bolt.

Added: 2008-04-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: matttracyg on 1994-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Skipped the last bolt

It's easier if you skip the last bolt. You don't have to waste precious time and energy trying to clip the bolt.

Added: 2007-09-06

... Read all 7 ascent notes