Down the slope, east (left) of Bloody Nose, on the face before the corner. Starts on big holds with an obvious trad crack for gear, slightly overhangs before a mantel onto a no-hands shelf (great rest, obviously). With trad pro placement at your feet (maybe a micro psyche piece at your waist), face climb to the stance for clipping the one bolt, then face climb up to the anchors at the big belay ledge/roof. Falling at the one bolt without clipping could ground ya. Originally done onsight without the bolt (1981)! Can feel harder than 10a with different sequences. [Second pitch sport route from there is 12d (11d variation out left after roof)]. Recommended.
Submitted by: jds100 on 2004-06-15
Route ID: 8087