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Fancy Lads - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.83/5 Average Rating : 4.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 14
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
2
bolts; chain anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.83/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.83/5
  Fun Factor 4.83/5

Description:

Sport route just right of the face under the huge roof up high, left of Black Widow dihedral. Bouldery first few sections takes you to good stances and pleasant climbing up to one of the highest first pitch belays at Draper's Bluff, under the right end of the huge roof. Get's easier as you get higher. Second pitch can be done with aid (a little awkward, but completely doable) for two or three moves, off of bolts, or as solid 12b/c. The finishing section is long, easy, and trad protected, to chain anchors. One of the more dramatic routes at Draper's Bluff. Highly recommended!!

Submitted by: jds100 on 2004-06-15
Views: 1237
Route ID: 8109

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: curtis_g on 2009-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Top route at Drapers.

Redpoint of both pitches. Awesome climb. The others have the description pretty much spot on. If you climb this grade, try it, it's a fun time.

P1 - 5.10c
P2 - 5.11d

Added: 2009-02-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: boondock_saint on 2008-12-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 2nd pitch

redpoint. callin this a 12a (if the outline is a 12a) especially if you're under 6'

Added: 2008-12-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: boondock_saint on 2008-12-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars finally

first pitch redpoint.

Added: 2008-12-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ClimbitToday on 2008-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Long Route!

I managed to nab a ground up (combining p1 and p2) red point of this one. Think the crux move feels harder than 11d. It's a two move wonder (11d) followed by steep and exposed climbing to the top (5.8). Bring a #2 and #3 and you're set for the trad section.

I'd rate p1 5.10c
and p2 (V3+ 5.8)

Added: 2008-04-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: matttracyg on 2006-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fantastic

Route has a really reachy crux move at the very bottom of the first pitch. Second pitch is even reachier off the anchors. I couldn't reach anything and aided the first couple of moves to get past the 5.12 hard section. Once you're past that it's really fun sport/trad climbing. Highly recommended.

Added: 2007-09-06

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