Sport route just right of the face under the huge roof up high, left of Black Widow dihedral. Bouldery first few sections takes you to good stances and pleasant climbing up to one of the highest first pitch belays at Draper's Bluff, under the right end of the huge roof. Get's easier as you get higher. Second pitch can be done with aid (a little awkward, but completely doable) for two or three moves, off of bolts, or as solid 12b/c. The finishing section is long, easy, and trad protected, to chain anchors. One of the more dramatic routes at Draper's Bluff. Highly recommended!!
Submitted by: jds100 on 2004-06-15
Route ID: 8109
I managed to nab a ground up (combining p1 and p2) red point of this one. Think the crux move feels harder than 11d. It's a two move wonder (11d) followed by steep and exposed climbing to the top (5.8). Bring a #2 and #3 and you're set for the trad section.
Route has a really reachy crux move at the very bottom of the first pitch. Second pitch is even reachier off the anchors. I couldn't reach anything and aided the first couple of moves to get past the 5.12 hard section. Once you're past that it's really fun sport/trad climbing. Highly recommended.