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unknown trad route - 5.8

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 90
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
trad; trad anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Right of Ant Killer, the obvious large left-leaning crack to the huge cliffline roof, on the light sand-colored rock. It looks easy, and it is, up to the crux. Scramble up to the crack, and start placing gear when you feel you need to. Beware of placing too far back into the crack, or your second may have a few choice words for you, as you stare at the shredded skin hanging from his or her hands. The second may actually want to wear a glove for removing the gear from the very sharp rock. The crux is moving off a fairly good stance, to the ledge under the roof; stem, crack climb, maybe some face holds. Protect well, or risk falling onto a ledge and ruining your day. There are plenty of great placements available for a bomber trad anchor. Exit by rapping off a little tree to the right, or by climbing the rounded arete behind and to the side of the tree; place a piece of gear, then go around the face on big holds to the bolted anchors for Shame, and rap from there. This is a very high rap, and you can't see the bottom; knot the ends and make sure your ropes are even.

Submitted by: jds100 on 2004-06-15
Views: 557
Route ID: 27890

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Upperlimits on 2008-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Bailed off

Bailed off this one. This one is called Underway 5.6 in the Vertical Heartland book. I can assure you it's no 5.6. More like a 5.9 move at the crux. Hard to protect properly and use the same area for holds. Takes some large cams. I would recommend 2 #3 BD's and a #4 at least. I ended up walking my cams back down the route and down climbing. I didn't have the stomach for the big move at the crux. Looked like a few hand jams which I wasn't comfortable with on trad.

Added: 2008-05-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: bluff_rat on 2004-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-06-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: andy_lemon on 2004-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

What a great climb... the jams are cool but there just isn't enough of them. I also liked the topout.

Witnessed by: Wes Tite
Added: 2004-06-08