This climb is on the obvious rock outcropping about 30 feet upriver from the lookout. Climb the crack in the dihedral to the right of the outcropping to a platform 7 feet off the ground. Step to the left and onto the face and up. The climb is about 60 feet tall.
Submitted by: moss1956 on 2004-06-18
Route ID: 38772
This was a nice long, solid climb. I found a crux about fifteen feet up, and another about 35 feet up. This route (the downriver set of points) was considerably easier than the upriver route on the same rock face. Definitely some steep pitches with not a lot to grab about 15 feet up, and then again about 50 feet up. Don't really agree with a 5.6 rating on this---seemed much harder.
First, the approach takes you to the top of the route so you have to rappel down to the base which is always fun. The route itself is solid with a lot of different movements for a 5.6. The crux is the only challenging part but isn't too difficult.
I kayaked to this place from the old river beach area on a misty almost rainy day. The climb up the gully was 4th/5th class and I protected myself with slings and a cam as needed. Top rope setup is easy...need about a 15 foot loop of webbing, and the anchors are in good shape. There is also a large block that can be slung for a third anchor point. The crux is about 2/3 of the way up, and I went to the left of the little roof which might make it a bit more than a 5.6.