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Sweet Jane - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.36/5 Average Rating : 3.36 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (25)
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J.J., Jane Maurer, 2004
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
1
UPDATE: Apparently this decent trad lead has now been fully bolted. Sad. Not like there weren't already enough fully bolted moderates in the area.Clip bolts OR....1 bolt 2/3rds of the way up and mostly smaller cams. You might want something bigger like a
50
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.85/5
  Rock Quality 3.38/5
  Scenery 3.08/5
  Fun Factor 3.46/5

Description:

Climb up the slabby dihedral left of "Hey There Fancy Pants." Follow up to a single bolt and come to a ledge below a roof. The anchor bolts are on the face of the roof with a ring dangling out in space to serve as your target. You might want to bring a whisk broom as it was quite sandy, especially at the ledge before the anchors. Maybe this will improve in time. Like many routes in this area, circa 11/08 there was a tag glued to the wall and engraved with the route name at the start. (Note: Details such as first ascent and length from Ray Ellington Red River Gorge climbing guide!)

Descent Options:

Bolted anchors and a rap ring on a cable loop. Rap off the ring in the cable loop (check this or add a sacrificial carabiner for redundancy) or use the anchor bolts in some manner. Not sure if they are rap bolts however!

Submitted by: mjwestla on 2009-03-09
Last Modified: 2012-07-31
Views: 1230
Route ID: 97240

25 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 25 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Aconite on 2014-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Check the layback.

Finishes with a fun and scary layback if you stay right.

Added: 2014-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Kriegerj on 2012-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ok route

...

Added: 2012-08-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cwo2 on 2012-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ,

,

Added: 2012-07-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jfreezy92 on 2012-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sport on the old trad

This route was recently bolted for sport climbing. very short fun climb.

Added: 2012-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: caprice11477 on 2012-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Newly bolted route

I actually liked this climb. The crux is definitely the top trying to get the anchors. Awkward stance, but nice jug to hold while clipping.

Added: 2012-06-18

... Read all 25 ascent notes