Skip to Content

Harder Than Your Husband - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 47
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Trad
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 2.67/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

this is the dihedral right of "Psycho Killer".

Submitted by: dr_offwidth on 2006-09-19
Views: 868
Route ID: 26297

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: johncotgrave on 2012-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars harder than your husband

tried it maniacally

Added: 2012-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: cuchulainn1856 on 2011-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2011-01-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leewee on 2009-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars hard onsight

i lead this one onsight while my friends worked on the sport routes to the right... i did some funky stuff to make it work but the jams were good and there is a great rest when the crux is over...

Added: 2009-03-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: super80drivr on 2006-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Caution....this is not the 8

Late in the day, an easy trad 8 to finish off the day was the idea...this route is the 11, the 8 is the NEXT dihedral! First half is sketchy with decent protection, second half above the first cracky crux is really headsy, exposed and pumpy....ugh! Two important foot chips have broken off.

pro: normal red river rack. couple of .5s or no. 1 link cams.

Added: 2006-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: neuroshock on 2007-11-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

First attempt w/ 1 hang Nov. 13, 2005. Redpoint Nov. 4, 2007 on 2nd try of the day, 5th try ever. Didn't figure out my "real" beta until the 4th attempt. NOTE: it's helpful to anchor the belayer in starter crack (takes fingers gear -- #.3 microcamalot/yellow TCU) in case of a fall once gaining roof crack until pro past crux is in.

pro: #.5 camalot in horizontal before roof crack, #.75 camalot low in roof crack,#1 camalot in crack just past shelf past the crux move and a brown tricam in small pocket. bolted anchor.

Added: 2005-11-13