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Jack the Ripper - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Jack Dickey
Rock (Trad)
G
gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Located on the south side of the buttress, about 120' left of As Luck Would Have It. Rap off.

Descent Options:

Anchors

Submitted by: monicaj on 2011-04-27
Views: 274
Route ID: 108536

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: camhead on 2012-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars (sadface)

The only hangdog ascents that I include here are those which are unusually memorable, for one reason or another. And this climb most definitely is that.

I got to the crux at the top, where face holds disappear, the crack thins down to about #3 stopper size, and was feeling pretty good. I'm not a super great stemmer, but was not sketched, and began working my way carefully up the dihedral. For one reason or another, I got a bit off balance and fell. Pulled one piece of gear, took about a 30 foot fall, and as the rope was catching me, my left foot glanced off of a little ledge. It hurt, but I did not think much of it, beyond believing it was a sprain. So I lowered off.

My wife finished the climb with a bit of aid as I sat back and belayed her. We got our gear, and began the long hop/buttslide back to the car. For the rest of that day and the next, I enjoyed the food, drink, and friends of Thanksgiving at the cabin that we had rented, keeping the foot elevated and iced.

A few days later, on arriving back to Columbus, we stopped in at the ER. I felt pretty silly being pushed in on a wheelchair. Two xrays, one CT scan, and a concerned orthopedist consult later, I found out that I had disrupted, dislocated, and broken several of the bones in my upper foot. Surgery, pins, and screws were all necessary, and I was on crutches in a cast for several months afterward.

Worst climbing injury I have ever had, and I am not sure that I will ever come back to this pitch, despite it being beautiful and fun. I should have just jumped right on "Mr. Get it on Jones," which although harder is also steeper with better gear. Oh well.

Added: 2013-01-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: monicaj on 2010-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Really amazing

One of my all time favorite trad pitches. Totally wild movement with believer commitment to the anchors. Awesome

Added: 2011-04-27