This route is a lot of work. You'll find it around the right corner from Rock Wars. Hand crack turns into squeeze chimney/lieback depending on your level of comfort with running it out, then to awkward hands and thin overhung fingers on the top. The crux is pretty much the exit move to the ledge. I won't spoil it for you. Guidebook says 5.8, but that top move is harder in my opinion.
Submitted by: maculated on 2004-05-12
Route ID: 52721
Im comfortable leading most 10s on gear..and I thought this was a weird route all together..and the top fingercrack was pumpy and difficult for a 5.8 grade..I agree with the description on here..does make you work, all kinds of climbing on this route, highly recommend for the fun factor!
Yea, I agree that the top is probably harder than 5.8. THIN lieback and an annoyingly tough topout (just when you think the hard part is over you have to deal with that crap...) It's pretty obvious what you are getting into from the ground though. Our leader who's pretty confident on 10s had to get some coaching at top... glad I didn't try the lead. At least it takes gear well where it gets hard.