To the left of Suction Lipectomy is a set of cracks about 5 feet apart. Note the tree growing out of the vracks and also some smaller trees on the second story. Pull yourself over an annoying bulge to a shelf and belay from there. Then shuffle up the wide layback to the top. Excellent route, but very dirty. Views from the top are nice. 90ft.
Submitted by: vawterclimber on 2004-04-07
Route ID: 50888
Everything from thin fingers to offwidth on this route. Have your belayer wear a helmet as sand and loose rock can fall off the first belay ledge. Pulling the bulge felt harder the 5.7 to me, but that may have been due to the hot & humid conditions. If this line cleans up it will be a classic.
This seemed a bit tough for the grade; our leader was doing some crazy splits/stemming at the start getting his first couple pieces in. Meandering up through the chimneyish section was surprising and a bit challenging - the sand didn't help! We stopped before the really dirty off-width continuation / p2. I'd recommend what we did for sure.