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Boys of Bangor - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5



Submitted by: leeper_z on 2002-07-29
Last Modified: 2010-10-18
Views: 1264
Route ID: 21170

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: SnowLurk on 2010-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Approach Climb, Pitch 1, Pitch 2

**Keep in mind there is no longer a two bolt anchor above pitch 1. Gear setup on the left side of ledge, instead. Ledges are littered with rock scree. Pitch 2 is runout. If you want to bail on the top of pitch 1, continue above the left side of the ledge (short right facing corner) and you will find a weathered tree rap station left more.

The approach: 5.7(r) Begin on the right end of the first terrace. Climb directly up the flakey face and onto the slab at the base of the headwall. Head left on the slab to meet pitch 1 of boys of bangor.

Pitch 1: 5.7(g) Climb the easy right facing corner.

Pitch 2: 5.7(r). Exposed. From left side of ledge, move right about 20 feet eyeballing the dirty diagonal crack. Climb begins where the dirty diagonal meets the ledge (small brushy pocket down low). Climb above towards the right side of the overlap (marginal gear), heading to the short brushy crack. Continue up this crack to scree littered ledge. Finish up and right by pulling onto the small ramp at the white headwall section. Two bolts on chain.

Added: 2010-10-13