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Sea Gypsy *** - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


From the large flat area where you survey this section of the wall 'Sea Gypsy' is a bit to your left. An Island Classic

P1: The original start begins on the vegetated left side of the footstool like projection from the base of the cliff (5.6). Alternately go up the right side at 5.8. At the top of this footstool is a 2b stance, either continue up to the next anchors (as was the original route) or stop and belay. From this anchor go straight up past a bolt to a left trending crack and some gear. Follow this crack to the second 2B anchor.

P2: This pitch wanders right off the belay and heads right to a fixed pin, then around a corner to the right, then back left to the obvious spectacular hand crack. Pull this perfect crack in a breataking location and up to a final 2B anchor.

Decent: A 60m rope makes the ground from the top of P2. If using a shorter cord work toward the 'Chitlin's Corner' or 'Return to Forever' anchors.

Submitted by: jstp on 2004-10-31
Views: 1210
Route ID: 61356

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2010-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sea Gypsy

It's just not fair that the wall is this stacked. Putting Sea Gypsy, Chitlin's, and G.M.B. that close to each other makes this one of the best sections of granite in New England.

A tough climb, have your lead shoes with you and don't fall. Serious climbing, and stiff for the grade. A caption accompanying a photo of this route in a recent mag called it 5.10b R.

Added: 2010-07-24

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: blueeyedclimber on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic!

This is a spectacular route, but not for everyone. The sections directly off of both anchors will keep out the Riff Raff. You need to have a solid lead head for this. Very runout 5.7-8 sections.

Added: 2010-06-01

Red Point Red Point ascent by: jstp on 2004-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-09-19