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Great Head

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About Great Head:

The so-called 'biggest east coast sea cliff', which is not true. Tallest in the US, but Canada puts this one to shame. Still an icredible location and spectacular climbing - very exciting with some swells comming in.

When climbing at Great Head KNOW THE TIDE and it is advised to fix a rope and bring ascenders or prussiks. There have been unfortunate accidents at this cliff, respect the ocean, tide and weather.

The cliff has several sections, the most impressive being the 'cavern' where the hardest routes and projects are. I will post a better description and some routes soon.

Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Granite
Type of Climbing: Trad
Sun Aspect:


SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
Average Rating = 4.33/5 Black Watch 5.9 3
Average Rating = 0.00/5 When Six Changes to Nine 5.11b 0
Average Rating = 3.33/5 Windward Roof 5.9 3
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Corsair 5.11a 1
0 Average Rating = 5.00/5 THe Head Arete 5.10d 1
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Barnacle 5.7 1
1 Average Rating = 4.80/5 Morning Glory ** (2) 5.8 11
2 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Crustacean 5.8 0
4 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Melba 5.10c 0
5 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Dragon Fish 5.13b 0
14 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Tiger Shark 5.11c 0

Topo Images

No route specified No route specified

Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)

Morning Glory **
Morning Glory **
No route specified No route specified No route specified