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Otter Cliffs

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About Otter Cliffs:

NEW!!! Another season on the coast of maine has brought.... new order to Otter Cliffs. In the RDB that is. All routes are now listed from left to right as you reach the top of the cliff from the trail, looking over the ocean.

Beautiful seaside climbing on sea cliffs 40-60 feet high. All routes can be toproped or belayed from above. Please do not use trees for anchors and do not aid the clifftop erosion by steppping into the bushes (both are banned by the Park Service). Also, check the tides, if the tide is in many of the climbs are quite wet at the bottom. The wonderwall area is most often dry at the base, regardless of tide.

Park in the Otter Cliffs parking lot on the Park Loop Road. The bathrooms are also in this parking lot, please use them, its only two minutes from the cliff.

From the lot, cross the road and head down the path to the top of some very broken cliffs. Head down the Shore Path to your left looking toward Sand Beech, which you can see in th distance. After about a hundered yards a clifftop appears through the trees on the right, chances are you will hear it first. The path you want drops down quickly on rocks, then immediately meets the logbook. Please log in and be courteous at this heavily used. Cliff. Taking up residence on a climb is considered poor form, vary it up. More fun for you and everyone. Also groups larger than 6 are required to register beforehand with the Park Service.

Bring a rack and a short length of static rope to build anchors. There are some bolted anchors at the left end of the cliff above Wonderwall, Adair by the sea, etc. To rig the staple fixed anchors use the two upright posts as independant points. DO NOT JUST SLING THE MIDDLE OF THE STAPLE. For ring eye anchors back up to a nearby staple. Expect a crowd from mid spring to mid fall.

Approach:
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues: must coordinate climbs w/ tides, check local papers for information
Rock Type: Granite
Type of Climbing: Top Rope
Sun Aspect: Morning Sun

Routes

SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Deep Blue Sea 5.7 2
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Rolling Swells 5.7 2
Average Rating = 3.00/5 Sumer Camp Corner 5.4 1
Average Rating = 4.10/5 The Great Chimney 5.5 10
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 alcove 5.7 2
0 Average Rating = 4.50/5 Barnacle Bait 5.7 3
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Choppy Seas 5.10a 2
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Franz 5.10a 2
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Greybeard 5.8 2
0 Average Rating = 4.18/5 Guillotine 5.10a 15
0 Average Rating = 2.50/5 Upper Corner 5.4 2
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Whitecaps 5.9 0
0 Average Rating = 4.25/5 Yellow Wall 5.8 14
1 Average Rating = 4.53/5 A Dare by The Sea *** (3) 5.10c 32
1 Average Rating = 3.75/5 Black Crack (1) 5.7 11
1 Average Rating = 3.75/5 Brochure Crack 5.9 5
1 Average Rating = 4.50/5 Childs Play 5.5 5
1 Average Rating = 2.88/5 Chockstone Chimney * 5.6 15
1 Average Rating = 3.33/5 Drunken Sailor * 5.10b 7
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Easy Corner (6) 5.6 19
1 Average Rating = 4.33/5 Engel Arete * 5.7 5
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Fogs Fall 5.8 0
1 Average Rating = 4.50/5 Gallery ** 5.12a 5
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Gallery Arete 5.9 4
1 Average Rating = 2.25/5 Guillemot Crack 5.6 9
1 Average Rating = 4.20/5 In the Groove ** (3) 5.4 18
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Inner Sanctum ** 5.10a 7
1 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Nerve Damage (2) 5.11b 4
1 Average Rating = 4.33/5 Open Book 5.7 7
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Otter Point ** 5.8 7
1 Average Rating = 3.67/5 Outer Face *** 5.8 9
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Peak Perfromance 5.10a 6
1 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Plaque Crack 5.9 4
1 Average Rating = 4.57/5 Razor Crack ** 5.8 15
1 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Riptide * 5.11a 2
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Rock Lobster * (3) 5.9 6
1 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Sober Seaman (1) 5.10a 3
1 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Summer Camp Corner 5.4 4
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Tap Dance 5.10a 1
1 Average Rating = 4.43/5 The Flake * (1) 5.7 18
1 Average Rating = 4.05/5 Wonder Wall *** (7) 5.7 33
31 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Overhanging Corner (2) 5.6 20
53 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Fisherman's Folly 2
54 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Lady Luck 5.11d 1
70 Average Rating = 4.25/5 The Flake Variation 4

Topo Images

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Forum Discussions (2 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
No Replies gear needed for top rope anchors?? GretaClimbs 0 Aug 13 2010, 6:00 AM
With Replies camping near/in Acadia? porkchop_express 2 Aug 26 2008, 2:42 PM