Routes : North America : United States : Maine : Far North: Millinocket North : Mt. Katahdin : Mt. Katahdin : The Flatiron
PreviousThe Flatiron - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock
Good selections of nuts, larger in size
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Description:
Another buttress climb. Difficulty from 5.7 - 5.8
Submitted by: pamola on 2002-04-24
Views: 1972
Route ID: 16350
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Fun alpine climb
Our version of this route.
Normal 2 hour approach from Chimney Pong took 3 because of wet rock.
Approach: As to the Armadillo, but head right instead of left and get on the big horizontal ledge that spans the length of the entire Flatiron feature.
(P1) Walk along the ledge until you find a slab that forms an obvious cave; climb up its right side (or start slightly further right) and find an obvious left-arcing hand/finger crack (5.8+, crux). If you do the climb when the face is damp, you will get no friction on the face and the crack will be more difficult, but it protects well and is short. Gain a ledge with loose rock and belay to the right ~10 feet in a right-facing corner. (P2) Climb up then left a few feet to find the long, right-facing dihedral with a hand crack that defines the pitch. Follow the dihedral until the crack begins to get more difficult and you can see a large crack with a narrow opening up and to your right (slung with some slings as of 9/6/2013). Belay on an obvious platform below the crack. (P3) Climb up the large crack looking for the first opportunity to traverse left. There will be an airy "step across" move to the left; do not stay in any large "12 inch" cracks for too long or they might end in an unprotectable corner (according to another route description). After you step across, find another crack system and continue upward, until you find a good belay spot (optional) or (P4) continue straight up and gain the ridge shortly. (P5-?) Simul climb or unrope for several hundred feet of easy climbing to the summit ridge. Be careful of loose / unstable rock.
Normal 2 hour approach from Chimney Pong took 3 because of wet rock.
Approach: As to the Armadillo, but head right instead of left and get on the big horizontal ledge that spans the length of the entire Flatiron feature.
(P1) Walk along the ledge until you find a slab that forms an obvious cave; climb up its right side (or start slightly further right) and find an obvious left-arcing hand/finger crack (5.8+, crux). If you do the climb when the face is damp, you will get no friction on the face and the crack will be more difficult, but it protects well and is short. Gain a ledge with loose rock and belay to the right ~10 feet in a right-facing corner. (P2) Climb up then left a few feet to find the long, right-facing dihedral with a hand crack that defines the pitch. Follow the dihedral until the crack begins to get more difficult and you can see a large crack with a narrow opening up and to your right (slung with some slings as of 9/6/2013). Belay on an obvious platform below the crack. (P3) Climb up the large crack looking for the first opportunity to traverse left. There will be an airy "step across" move to the left; do not stay in any large "12 inch" cracks for too long or they might end in an unprotectable corner (according to another route description). After you step across, find another crack system and continue upward, until you find a good belay spot (optional) or (P4) continue straight up and gain the ridge shortly. (P5-?) Simul climb or unrope for several hundred feet of easy climbing to the summit ridge. Be careful of loose / unstable rock.
Added: 2013-09-08
