LOTS OF GOOD PRO AT THE TOP, AS FOR A LEAD THE FIRST 15 FEET OR SO IS RUNOUT
Climb the shadowed face left around the corner fo BUTTERFINGERS,right from the 3rd class scramble to the upper part of the crag. The direct start explodes past two dyno moves, the first to a great horizontal hand/finger lock, the second to a smaller fingerlock not quite so close(larger dyno). The first dyno is up an overhanging wall: the second starts from under an overhang and finishes on an almost pure vertical surface. After that, follow the rock to the top. Note: using flake or any handholds around the 4th class breakdown area, or any holds off the left of the main wall is considered "off-route" and "reduces" the grade to about 5.9+ or so.
take the gulley to the left of the route
Submitted by: bonner340b on 2009-03-01
Route ID: 98050
Start out on the boulder below the bolder that touches the face. There is a flat surface that looks like a good start, but is a sucker move because it puts you too far to the left for a good start. Start far right of the flat boulder and use a nice undercling at chest level to help you reach way up for the bomber horzintal ledge. From there is where the fun starts. Work you way up the horzontial to the left. Get both feet up high and lock off you right arm and reach as far as you can for the small finger lock up and to the left. From there it is smooth sailing up some 5.8 rock.