Locate the short 4 bolt sport climb on the green slab. Head up and left about 20 yds, passing a large right facing offwidth corner system. Look for a thin crack system with a pin in it. Climb the thin crack for about 20 ft. to reach a bolt (crux is the first few moves). Several gear placements can be made before reaching the bolt. Follow the face straight up to reach a large ledge. There's at least one gear placement that can be found on the face between bolts and the ledge. Shuts are on the wall behind the ledge.
Note: This route can now be continued all the way to the top. There is a bolt (actually two, but using the right hand bolt allows you to connect the bottom and top into one long 90' climb) about 15' above the large ledge protecting the harder moves on the top part of the climb. Once above this bolt easier climbing and good gear take you to a pair of shuts at the top. The upper part of the climb probably goes at something like 5.8+ or 5.9?
Submitted by: jersteck on 2008-12-12
Route ID: 93192
This route is beautiful. Mixed protection and just fun. Great spot to teach someone how to follow since you can belay from the first set of shuts on the ledge. Bottom section is a bit cruxy but then eases up until u get to the first bolt above the first set of shuts.
This finger crack is hard to resist, even at the end of a long day with 8 good climbs under your harness. As mentioned, the beginning is the hardest and protects well with both gear and clipping the old piton, which seems surprisingly decent (although I would not solely rely on this piton to protect a fall). The top of the bottom section is varied climbing with good gear to be had up to the big ledge. From here just clib the right-most shut and continue to climb off the ledge on the upper part of the climb passing a new bolt ~15' up off the ledge. There are some harder moves here protected by the bolt and then again some easier, well-protected climbing to the shuts. The entire route is 90' and one of the taller climbs at Locust Grove.