It's about 25 ft to the first piece of gear, maybe R because if you fall and miss the ledge where your belayer is, it's another 30 ft to the ground. Small gear, all less than 1.5".
Start is the same as the Unknown, 5.10d. Climb up to reach good holds and hand traverse right and up along a nice rail with good holds. At the point where this rail ends, you get the your first piece. Continue up and right a bit and then head back left toward the outside edge of the buttress following the path of least resistance. Continue up to the top ledge.
You can traverse left at the top and lower from the shuts above Bee Sting, or just walk off to the left.
Submitted by: jersteck on 2008-04-20
Route ID: 93200
An alternate start to the one described can be done by starting farther to the right. Locate the large shrub growing about 15' up and right out of the cliff and start just to the right of that. By climbing up and left to come just below this shrub you can get a low piece of gear and sling this stout shrub keeping the protection reasonable and still at 5.8. After slinging the shrub climb up and slightly left following the obvous crack to join the route as described above. Nice long route, with good, but thought provoking gear with lots of variety. Sweet exposure up high and a very nice belay ledge and excellent view if you set-up a part tree and part trad anchor for belaying. One of my favorites at Locust Grove (Obviously)