This is the left most climb on the slab. Start below a thin crack system just to the left of a tree. Climb up some face moves to reach the thin crack. The first piece will depend on the gear that you have. A ball nut helps to get a first piece early on. Somewhat tricky to get a good piece in the first 15 ft. Follow the crack as it diagonals to the right. Lot's of very small gear.
Build an anchor at the top. Walk off to the left.
Submitted by: jersteck on 2009-05-03
Route ID: 93256
This can be a mentally tough climb and should only be attempted by those strong at the grade on slab. The first two pieces will be something like your smallest slider or Lowe ball (if you even have one) and then your smallest nut. At about 20' you get your first decent nut and then it is smooth sailing with both gear and climbing from there, but the first 20' can be challenging to keep it together to place these small pieces. Last time I did this, I did not feel anywhere near confident enough to try on lead, so instead set-up a gear+tree anchor at the top and top-roped it. Could then use this anchor to top-rope the 5.10 slab climb next to it. The bolts are a little too far to the right in my opinion to use for top-roping the 5.9, thus the trad anchor.