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Black and White Rocks

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Climbing Sections:

About Black and White Rocks:

Located in the Middlesex Fells MDC Reservation, B&W Rocks shares prime recreational real estate with walkers, mountain bikers and naturalists.

Composed of a half dozen cliffs ranging from 20 to 80 feet high. The toprope routes range in difficulty from 5.2 to 5.10.

Crag 6 hosts (seasonally) the closest natural ice climb to Boston.

I have added a bunch of route info that I know of for the fells. Please feel free to add specific beta to routes if you have some.

Routes are ordered in each crag from left to right (looking at the crag).

Nearest town or city: Melrose
Directions:

The Fells is bisected by rt. 93. There are a few ways to get there, this one seems most direct to me.

Exit 33 puts you in a rotary above the highway. Stay in rotary until you see signs for "Fellsway West/28N." Follow those signs out of the rotary, the highway on your left as you head north.

From Fellsway West, turn Right at the sign for "Flynn Rink." Take this road up the hill away from the highway, until you enter a rotary.

Take the first right turn out of the rotary onto "Highland"

Pretty soon you'll turn left onto East Border Road.

the tricky part:
The six crags known well for climbing are in a relatively compact section of the fells bordered on the West by Fellsway East, on the East by Washington Street (and other small streets) and on the south by East Border Road.

The best parking situation is probably at the trailheads on Fellsway East. You can reach these by turning left onto Fellsway East from East Border Road at the light. It is the first right you reach on EBR.

Crag 1 is the North Facing crag beneath the antenna tower at the South End of this area. Crag 6 faces East in the northern end of the area.

The white-blazed "Rock Circuit Trail" Takes you to these crags.

Please feel free to edit these directions if you can improve upon them.

Latitude, Longitude: 42.44130, -71.07980
Access Issues:
Camping: None
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Week

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