Starting up the seemingly blank, prominent flake between two cracks (Tensile Strength and Bombay), about two thirds to the right of the wall, gaining thin horizontal seams. Go straight up joining the left crack (now a seam) two thirds up, between the big rock "steps" on the left and the spray-painted "Zero" on the right.Climb the seam up to the top about five feet to the left of big "V" groove. Picture with route info is available in this section.
Submitted by: staal on 2005-11-28
Route ID: 59494
5.11 slab start: a high left foot onto a marginal edge is the crux beta. Then easy climbing with good no-hands rest to reach twin seams about 2/3rds up wall. 5.12a crux move: move your hands to the crimps in left & right seams and match feet in large left pocket. Keep right foot in large pocket, and cross through with left foot to smaller toe pocket under right seam. Bump left hand up twice until left hand seam widens into a good hold. Follow obvious hands up with 5.11 climbing to finish.
Crux feels 12a to me. The crux is similar difficulty and style to "Flesh for Lulu" at Rumney. This climb would be five stars if it were twice as long or more sustained.
I first tried this top rope problem in around 1993 or so, over the water. After many years went by I tried it again, figured it out, and have since top roped it many, many times. It got a bit easier after a film crew over-zealously cleaned their set from the wall in 2008.