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Thank You Scott - 5.12a

Average Rating = 3.40/5 Average Rating : 3.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
Rock
R or Toprope. Two glue-in bolts at the top. The last section (a dyno) is scary on the lead.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 1.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.25/5
  Scenery 1.67/5
  Fun Factor 3.80/5

Description:

The route is located at the highest part of the wall and has three short sections divided by two big ledges. The first section follows the prominent overhanging crack at the highest part of the wall. The second part continues straight up to the second and last ledge. The final section is the shortest and mainly consists of a long move (read: dyno) up to a small shelf. This move is hard to protect, and the Boston Rocks book indicates that the FFA was done by toproping this section. The last section can be made easy by going diagonally up to the left. FA: Sprax at A2, FFA: Zeb Engberg. Rated 5.12 R in Boston Rocks, 2nd edition. Actually on the first lead Zeb did not TR the final section but did take the easier left hand finish.

Submitted by: olderic on 2006-07-18
Views: 333
Route ID: 44846

8 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 8 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mnottingham on 2009-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thank You Scott

Lower crack section rules. Way easier if you choose to use the pile of cheater stones that is usually there. Lower Crux is getting to the crack without using any cheater stones. Yes, the spray paint make it harder to use those crimps. Deal with it. On the top section, I go right, then traverse left to the anchors. To keep it at .12, you must climb the final section straight up (I can't). Otherwise I would say 5.11a. FUN !

Added: 2009-08-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Bag11s on 2009-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars trad- placed all gear on lead.

3 cruxes separated by 2 no-hand rests. I had toproped this many times before, so it seemed about time to try it. On the 3rd tier I went straight to the anchor, protected by a small nut in the crack out right.

Added: 2009-08-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: blueeyedclimber on 2009-03-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nice

Did it cleanly on toprope. I was debating on leading it, but both the middle and top sections are a little scary. Chickened out. Someday.

Added: 2009-03-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: fxgranite on 2007-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fantastic route

The bottom overhanging crack is the best part

Added: 2007-06-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: bongowurm on 2005-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

By headlamp. Took a few tries. I was surprised to find the first move the hardest on the route. Does not feel like a 12.

Added: 2005-07-14

... Read all 8 ascent notes