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Milford Quarries - South

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Climbing Sections:

About Milford Quarries - South:

Milford MA has a history as one of the major granite producers in New England: the first quarries opened in the mid 1800s and continued havesting and selling stone for almost 100 years. Granite from Milford MA graces buildings from around the world, with a particular kind of of granite, called "Milford Pink" for it's light pink color (a long continuous wall of which graces the north side of the Lowes shopping plaza on rte 85), found only in Milford MA. Now abandoned, a couple of the old quarries exist with some enjoyable over-water top-roping opportunities. The most accessible of these is south of rte 495, between rte 495 and rte 16, and is easily reached from the Loiusa Lake recreation area entrance to the newly (2005-2006) constructed Milford Upper Charles Trail. In recent years past, this quarry area has been frequented as a hidden townie partying spot, and definitely bears the scars (trash, grafitti, etc), so if you climb there, please be willing to pack out some trash to earn good will with the town. Be wary of broken glass, especially on some of the lower overwater ledges. With the advent of the Milford Upper charles trail, the path into the South Quarry sees more frequent traffic from casual hikers and mountain bikers as well.
Nearest town or city: Milford
Directions: from north or south, take exit 20 off route 495, and head south on rte 85 towards rte 16. take a right at the lights (Wendy's is the landmark) onto Dilla St. Follow Dilla street until you come to the recreation area parking lot next to the spillway for Louisa Lake (there are picnic tables, benches and charcoal pits It's a popular town recreation area). Park in the lot and foillow the paved path about 1/3rd mile, passing a substantial boulder on the left which has a right leaning shallow arch on the face towards the paved trail. just over the slight rise past the boulder, on the left you'll see an obvious wide dirt trail (probably an old quarry road). turn onto the trail and follow it until it forks. Take the left hand fork and follow that until you arrive at the South Quarry. Along the dirt trail you'll see many boulders off in the woods to the right, some of these are among the well-known Milford boulders and offer fun climbing in their own right. following the right hand fork will eventually bring you out to the powerlines on the south side of rte 495
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Camping: None
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Day