(from the Falcon Guide) *** 15'left of the triangular overhang is a blunt arete on a black wall with a small roof below the first bolt. Climb up to the pocket, pass some small roofs on the right, then try to figure out the last moves.
Submitted by: duskerhu on 2002-08-08
Route ID: 21755
A stick clip for the first bolt is really nice. To the third bolt is a little run out to red wing standards. Going for the 5th bolt is run out, there is commiting moves and with you fell when your almost to the 5th bolt you would take a good 15 - 20 footer, just a heads up. But there is a crack that will take a nut but its goofy and a blue tcu would work if the head was narrower. So a #1 master cam or alien would work. and if you got a cam in there that is half way betweet the 4th and 5th bolt and would make that much more comfortable. but we did it without, so it is possible.
Good route. There are a couple different ways you can get up it. Straight up the middle, a little to the right, or out to the left. All variations are about the same difficulty until you get to the top. I somehow got way out to the side of the second to last clip and had to make a really reachy clip. Still got the onsight, but had to work the nerves.