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Mystical Mountain West

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About Mystical Mountain West:

Mystical Mountain is the most popular crag in these areas and on of the tallest in the state at about 130 feet. Top-ropes belayed from the bottom are possible on some routes via rappel to an intermediate ledge. Otherwise, belay from the top or rap and lead it. A fixed rope for rappeling (or jugging;) can make you feel a bit more comfortable. From the "Lake Study Area" turn right and hike down the valley following the left side of the stream. The trails zigs up and left; look for a large white boulder and skirt it to the left, heading directly up an eroded trail. You will end up at the right end of Mystical Mountain West beneath "Black Gate" and "Horners Corner". Continue uphill and right around the cliff past the access gully for the top of Mystical Mountain to Mystical Mountain South. The trails descends along the base of the rock, around a corner and bends right near "Mother Goose" into a grove of cedars. Please walk around this grove of trees. The cliff is naturally devided into two sections, Mystical Mountain West and South. The West section will be the first you come to on approach from below. Mystical Mountain South will be next and is up and right of West. Access to the top is up through a badly eroded gully between the two sides. Cut left up a root laced chimney that usually has a fixed rope (class 2-3) which puts you above "Black Gate". To reach the South section continue up a bit and find a trail to the right. You could also reach the top of South by continuing around the far right end of the cliff. (Portions of this description taken from the Falcon Guide)
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Rock Type: Volcanic
Type of Climbing: Trad
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