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29. Black Gate (5.10a) *** - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Trad or T-R
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

(from the Falcon Guide) ***In the world of the verticle, how can something so horizontal be so troubling? 12' right of the overhang is a thin crack, just left of a large talus block. Up the crack, traverse slightly left, then up to the top.

Submitted by: duskerhu on 2002-09-11
Views: 347
Route ID: 23838

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: bnorrgar on 2008-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Quality Northshore Climbing!

Great thin finger crack! Starts with some face moves following a seam up. The seam goes into a very minor corner and open up for some very thin fingers and a piton scar jam. As it moves past the minor corner the route finds some jugs until it reaches a significant horizontal crack. Traversing along the horizontal crack to the left you'll encounter a seam/ thin finger tip crack...this is the crux...two moves and you're at the top! Great little climb to keep you thinking! You need some balls to lead it... protection is pretty minimal.

Added: 2008-06-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: short-stack on 2007-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good thing you can stand anywhere on anorthasite!

A tricky little route. The crack down at the bottom wasn't particularly good, but it worked. The crux is either there, or up at the top where you traverse left depending on how you tackle it. Careful, there were a lot of hornets around when I visited.

Added: 2007-08-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: short-stack on 2007-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good thing you can stand anywhere on anorthasite!

A tricky little route. The crack down at the bottom wasn't particularly good, but it worked. The crux is either there, or up at the top where you traverse left depending on how you tackle it. Careful, there were a lot of hornets around when I visited.

Added: 2007-08-14