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Capen Park

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About Capen Park:

Capen Park is not a huge climbing area so there is only one section to talk about. The climbing is top rope accessible with some great bouldering on the cliff side closest to the parking lot. The cliff is between 30 and 50 feet. Capen Park offers some good overhang climbing and moderate pocket/crack climbing. The bolts to tie into are not all close to the cliff. So, you will need some long lengths of webbing in order to hang your rope off the cliff properly. One warning would be that the overhangs create a possibility of flying into the cliff if lead climbing so protect well. One final note: there is also some boulder routes hidden in the forest and creek bed around the park. If you feel adventurous, go find some of the routes and have a blast Note: Do not tie into the bolt hangers at the top of Capen (or any hanger). ALWAYS clip a carabiner to the hanger and tie your webbing to the carabiner.
Approach: Next to MU campus in Columbia, Missouri: from the intersection of Rock Quarry Rd/College Ave with Stadium blvd, drive south on Rock Quarry Rd, turn left before the bridge towards Capen Rock Park and mulch site.
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Limestone
Type of Climbing: Top Rope
Sun Aspect: Morning Sun

Routes

SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Not Named V0 0
Average Rating = 3.20/5 Roots 5.7 5
Average Rating = 4.00/5 The Open Book 5.10a 15
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 China Doll 5.8 V0 0
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Jay's dyno V3 1
0 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Rock Garden 5.9 2
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Ape Man 5.8 2
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Butt Slammer 5.6 0
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Crazy Man 5.14d 0
1 Average Rating = 3.62/5 Footloose 5.11a 10
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Green Slime 5.8 8
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Hard Traverse V4 0
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Levitation V5 0
1 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Missouri Breaks (2) 5.10c 4
1 Average Rating = 2.75/5 Mister Easy 5.5 4
1 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Next to Nubbin (1) 5.11a 2
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Northwest Passage 5.8 3
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Roots 5.6 2
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Russian Vault 5.6 0
1 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Straight Up 5.9 2
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Sunshine 5.9 1
1 Average Rating = 3.20/5 Swingtime (1) 5.11a 6
1 Average Rating = 2.60/5 The Open Book 5.9 6
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 The Russian Vault (1) 5.6 3
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 The Slot 5.5 0
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Three Horns 5.8 1
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Traverse V0 1
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 White Lightning 5.11b 1
5 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Flenner Sit Down V3 0
12 Average Rating = 4.00/5 All or nothing 5.11c 2
26 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Solution Pocket (2) 5.10c 1

Forum Discussions (2 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies Capen Park Trip freemeliberty 3 Jul 23 2011, 9:25 AM
With Replies New loose rock at Capen Park madscientist 3 Oct 08 2007, 7:29 PM