Skip to Content

Ancient Sea Friends - 5.11b V2

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 17
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Kevin Capps 2010
Rock (Sport) Bouldering
G
1
mixed, 7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b V2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

About 20 - 30 feet to the right (south) of Next Time, Send a Card, route goes up the wide dihedral. Take a 2.5" - 3.5" cams to protect moving into the base of the main dihedral. A good cam placement makes this route very well protected.

Descent Options:

rap or lower

Submitted by: kcapps on 2010-04-30
Last Modified: 2013-02-19
Views: 794
Route ID: 104593

Most Recent Photo

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b V2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: metamorphicfour on 2011-01-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 11ish feel

Lower slab feels no harder than 5.9 moves. This applys to any move below the main dihedral roof, for at this point, the route turns into a different beast.
To pull the main roof, most climbers head out left, following the horizontal crack, then attack the upper dihedrel. I suggest using the undercling on the roof, a high step with the left foot, to gain the main horizontal edge on the face of this upper dihedral. The left hand moves off the undercling and works up a thin crack until standing upright while pressing on the upper roof. Step high and right with the right foot while converting the upper roof edge into a series of underclings and pinches. Reach far right to next obvious hold (hatchet) to gain the top hold (ax head). Now clip to rap anchors.

Added: 2013-02-17