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ultra pimp - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
draws and a #1 Camalot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

start at right facing flake on north end of the wall.about /4 up; you can chose the right or left variation- left is "morning wood; 5.10a" -right is 5.8.

Submitted by: therealbovine on 2003-01-10
Views: 514
Route ID: 3754

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mwelly007 on 2008-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Had to do it...obvi

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Added: 2008-07-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dwise on 2007-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Off Route

Excellent route. Unfortunately, I think I went too far right too soon and ended up in some very lousy rock. I clipped the ring angle piton and then aimed for a bolt a short ways to the right. This led me to a large hollow flake horizontal (which will pull off some day) and up to a left facing dihedral of very poor rock. There was a place for a solid .5 BD cam or a stopper, but as I didn't bring anything smaller than a .75 camalot, I placed a #2 camalot under a hollow flake and raced to the top--had a hold break off in my hand midway up.

Moral of the story: I think I should have stayed left until after the piton and ignored the bolt to the right. I ended up one dihedral too far right.

Added: 2007-04-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: all_about_peace on 2002-01-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun, tough, and burly

very nice route

Added: 2007-01-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2006-10-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The right finish variation is pretty dirty. The left is clean below the dead tree but filled with pine needles and dirt above that. I'd consider finishing via the crack finish to H.T.B.P.; just use a long runner on the first fixed pin to avoid rope drag.

Witnessed by: ablann
Added: 2006-10-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: eriktheweightless on 2004-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: Katie
Added: 2004-04-17

... Read all 6 ascent notes