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Densepack - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Bill Dockins '83
Rock (Trad)
Small stuff, and lots of it. At 3.5 to protect the start.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


"Densepack aptly describes how to place wired nuts and ballnutz on the bottom third of this route. Start just inside the slot between BO Buttress and the rib to its south. Fire up a short layback flake (your 3.5) then move right onto a slightly overhanging face with small feet and holds. Follow the seam making intricate face moves on clean rock then traverse left to the buttress' corner and a crack which leads to the top. Take RPs and gear to 1.5 as well as a 3.5 for the start." Climber's note: super thin pro in the middle...

Descent Options:

walk off back

Submitted by: gaalsent on 2010-07-12
Views: 595
Route ID: 105763

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: beerbelly on 2012-07-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars kind of scary

the gear is really good, those micro stoppers are key. got really pumped sewing it up and ended up with some pretty crappy rope drag. solid for the grade, enjoyable climbing

Added: 2012-07-25

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Suhbrand on 2011-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars warm up OS

ended up having to leave earlier than we wanted so just jumped right on this. really good moves, but I had to pause a ton to sew this thing up, just like the description says! If you have a #4 and RPs or equivalent its totally worth jumping on

Added: 2011-06-22

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gaalsent on 2010-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Holy Crap

Another Dockins' classic. This reminded me of 'Anderson's Airlift' except the pro was even more scant and small. I did it this AM and looks like someone had bailed off a sketch nut and biner halfway up - if you read this I left it for you because at least you had the balls to get on this. Cheers to anyone who can onsight this "11a."

Added: 2010-07-12