This 5 pitch route follows the ridgeline of Skyline Buttress and is the longest route in Gallatin Canyon, and quite enjoyable. It starts on the northside in a chimney on the lowest tier of Skyline (the tier above Ashes of Stone). It can be done in 4 pitches, however be very wary of rope drag. Often it is worth it to set up belay simply because of rope drag. Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined easily in the following description.
P1: 5.6 Start up the chimney and eventually more onto the left of the river-facing prow. Continue up tiers until you reach a set of rap rings.
P2: 5.6 Either rap off south 20 some feet, or downclimb narrow chimney(fun) to a ledge at the base of an obvious 100' chimney. Climb chimney to top and pass up through a small hole.
P3: 5.5 Follow the ridge up another 60' tier.
P4: 5.6 Follow the ridge up yet another 80' tier.
P5: 5.6 Follow the path of least resistance around the north side of the arête. Make an exposed traverse just above a small tree sticking out of the rock. Then head to the south side of the arête and finish the climb by heading up the exposed southern side of the rib.
Continue walking east until you can safely walk down the south side of the buttress. There is a well trodden climbers trail the entire way down, so if you lose the trail, go back and find it!
Submitted by: atpeaceinbozeman on 2004-01-22
Last Modified: 2010-06-24
Route ID: 47619
Climbed pitch one and rapped down to the ledge for pitch two. Pitch two hops up two 15 foot steps in to a very well protected chimney. I used my cordelette to tail the rack, shoes and water through the "birth canal" there slim pro there any way. The next two tiers we linked together. the summit is slight on cracks to belay from, but if you hop the 5 foot gap there's a huge boulder that can be slung for a bomber belay spot. Walk off the back side.
This is a great and very fun route. I will just add a little info I would have found helpful. I would do the first two pitches as one, and I would belay at the large ledge after the two 15 foot steps. There are anchors at the back of the ledge that you could use but you would want to extend the belay back to the lip. You can then use these anchors to rap to the beginning of the chimney. The hole at the top of the chimney pitch is quite small. I would suggest limiting your rack and putting any extra gear, including chalk bag, in a sack that the second can carry and pass up through the hole. I am about 155 pounds and I felt almost stuck climbing through. I would consider bringing a second rope or tag line to rappel at this point (down Crystal Caper, which has fixed rappel anchors). The rest of the climb is fun with great views but the down climb is a little ugly. Just before the final ridge, it looks like you can go down to the north (left) and then go up and around this buttress to get around to the south. We carried on along the ridge, which had one more easy pitch (easy but very exposed with loose rock--we used a rope) to get on top of the final outcrop, which has a large cairn. There are fixed rappel anchors on the south side. A single rope (60 m) line gets you to a shelf where you can walk off easily. The down climb is through a burned forest with lots of downed trees and very loose footing. Make sure to stay to your right to avoid missing the start. Enjoy.