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I am a Wicked Child - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Andrew Whitmore
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
PG13
2
1st Pitch: .4" to 2" and bolts 2nd Pitch: RPs, small to medium nuts, .4" to 3". One bolt.
210
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

1st Pitch: From the level of the "Fugitive" do a short 4th class traverse (left to right) to ledge with tree on N. side of 3rd tier of the Waltz. Start in the rt. facing corner of Adante (5.9; flaring, vegetated crack). (Do not climb the 1st pitch of "Adante" of the talus as both guidebooks suggest.) At 15' angle rt. through gear protected vertical face. Surmount the large, solid horn (medium TCUs, small nuts). Gain good stance, delicately step right to the bolt-protected rounded arete. Climb through 55' of intricate face to a fun big-holds/vertical finish. If doing the second pitch (5.12) climb through the chain anchors and set-up a gear anchor 10' further up on a good ledge. Otherwise, lower carefully (70m recommended). 2nd Pitch: Move the the belay 5'-10' to the climbers left. Use trees to anchor belayer. Start underneath a broken fingercrack below several hanging corners. Climb this crack (5.12) up to the first roof. Climb the series of hanging corners trending left (5.10). Clip a bolt exiting the last corner to the left. High-step to a broken ledge with a small whitebark pine. Pass underneath tree and work straight-up 60' of gear protected face utilizing all available protection. Two separate 5.11 cruxes guard the last 30'. Chain anchors for lowering or set gear anchor on top of the 3rd Tier of the Waltz and walk-off.

Descent Options:

Rap from chain anchors (70m required) or continue onto the top 3rd tier of The Waltz and walk off to the south.

Submitted by: ecowhit on 2007-07-09
Last Modified: 2010-08-30
Views: 736
Route ID: 85992

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3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ecowhit on 2010-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars FA of 2nd Pitch

From the top of the 1st pitch move left (east) to a small dirt/rock ledge. Anchor belayer to either tree. Climb up broken overhang to get good gear into the fingercrack. Its possible to step down and reset after getting the gear in. Overhanging/in-your-face climbing pulls through the bulge. Be VERY careful on the moves past your pieces, its very difficult to get more gear in at this point. Get situated above at a good stance with gear. Follow the hanging corners. The face above is tricky. Obtain gear whenever possible (RPs, offset cams, a couple hand-sized). Stay on guard for two separate cruxes towards the top.

Added: 2010-08-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cyfairrockhound on 2009-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great addition Andrew!

Lower rock is somewhat junky, but the arete is a beautiful well protected slab! Steep and Fun!

Added: 2009-09-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ecowhit on 2007-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Oh

Good option for this area, an accessible nice line.

Added: 2007-06-17