Three pitches up the three main steps, plus some scrambling to connect them. The second pitch (5.6) is the nicest; the third (5.8) is not hard but an intimidating lead, with routefinding and limited protection. It's possible to split this pitch by belaying either at the small tree 40 feet up, or on an overhung ledge just short of the top.
Submitted by: ambler on 2003-08-27
Route ID: 39700
Did the Kalakay direct start too - ~10bish; fun stuff and its bolted. Rest is pretty cruiser. First time actually leading it although two-plus years in the canyon... Third pitch exposure and thin pro was a headgame but the moves are there.
This was my first trad lead, which I did a couple of summers ago. I climbed it again last weekend and thought I would add some info on the decent. You can walk off easily to the right after P1. One guidebook says that you can walk off to the right after P2. This is what we did the first time, but it is very exposed with a high (fatal?) penalty for slipping. I found the rappel anchor this last time. As you go over the lip to start down the ramp to the base of P3, there is an anchor for a single rope rappel to the south (right). There is a good trail down from there: Thanks to those who worked on this.
Very nice route. Loved the easy crack on pitch 2. Not sure why people dont climb the 3rd pitch. If you look a bit down and left from the start, theres a great spot to stick a .3 camalot. 3rd pitch was mossy, and the cruz move was exhileratingly commital. Climbed with Saunders.