3 pitches. starts to the north of the elevator shaft. Wander up crap to base of dihedral. Climb up and traverse out right when it looks good. Squeeze into chimney. That's right, you heard me: I said chimney. Do it. Find Chains near the top and make a few raps to the ground.
Submitted by: bozemaniac on 2003-11-19
Route ID: 39292
descriptions below seem to be spot on. feels harder than 8+ (especially in the dark). p1 and p2 go fairly easily but p3 is sustained. chimney on p3 is very tight (take your pack of before you get in it). roof isn't bad at all if you find the right hold. enjoy!
Climbed with Katey and linked up to Sparerib. Great climb - really hard for 5.8 . . . I would call it a 9. Had to take at one point on the chimney on pitch 3. Thought this was the crux, not the overhang.
The first two pitches went well. The chimney on the 2nd pitch is a tight squeeze but fun. There are no bolted anchors, so retreat will cost you--bring a second rope. Pitch three is the real work. The flaring crack is sustained and really makes you work. I found this section harder than the actual roof. At the start of the 3rd pitch you need to get out on the face (move right) fairly soon. We initially went too far up the dihedral and had to back down.
This was my first multi-pitch trad route and I loved it. Super fun little belay ledges. First two pitches are easy but the third pitch gets harder as you go up with little overhang at the top. Would love to do it again sometime.