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Guardin' Privates - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Paul Pertile, Phillip Dobson
Rock (Sport)
4 bolts; 3 fixed pins, slings and a fingers sized cam will make the TR anchor.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Bolted line between Flemmish Flair and S Crack. Hard slab with no jugs to speak of until you top out. Very technical, fun movement with 2 very distinct cruxes. Most people will have to dyno the start move, so bring a crash pad, stick clips are for sissies. Bolts 2 and 4 can be clipped from a semi hands free stance. This route used was listed in the Butte Climbing Guide as a top rope climb called Private Gardens (5.11b), holds definitely fell off since the book came out and it's got our hand drilled Triplex bolts on it now, enjoy!

Descent Options:

walk off or rap from Flemmish Flair chains or from S Crack chains

Submitted by: RockerPaully on 2010-10-11
Last Modified: 2010-10-14
Views: 571
Route ID: 106859

Most Recent Photo

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: RockerPaully on 2010-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars FA

K, now someone else needs to climb this and give us an idea of how far off our grade is : )

Added: 2010-10-11