I am writing from distant memory and some of what I report may be inaccurate. I believe this route was renamed "My Mother's Muscle Tee" or some such nonsense, after what was probably the first free ascent (this was Alex Lowe who then rated it 5.10+). I prefer the old name. This is a FANTASTIC ROUTE, with maybe 9 pitches of climbing. Start right of center on the south face, approaching from the east side. The first pitch climbs a corner system that leads up to a nice finger crack at maybe 5.10- and finishes at a bomber belay ledge. The second pitch starts up the short chimney thingie and then continues up a clean 5.9 face (with a bolt or two). Now walk along a nice ledge westward towards the center of the face. The fourth pitch is a little tricky to see, but exposed and beautiful: downclimb the squeeze chimney then hand traverse towards a flare. There is a very thin crack at the back of the flare that protects well. 5.10 face moves get you into the main dihedral system smack dab in the center of the South Face. You can no longer get lost and the easiest way down is up. Climb a pitch or two of sustained 5.8 crack. Then comes an exciting 5.10 double roof pitch (with a bolt or two). Above that is the crux pitch with a difficult flared crack traversing up. Seemed like it could be solid 5.11 to me, but this is not a very objective rating. After the crux comes a couple more pitches, maybe up to 5.9, to reach the summit. The descent was complex and involved downclimbing and rapelling off trees and bushes to get down the east side. I'm not sure how much this route has changed in the years since I've been there, but hopefully not too much.
Submitted by: machino on 2006-03-31
Route ID: 65996