Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Dean Towarnicki, Scott Parker
Gear to 3" and extra wires and finger sized pieces. I also found a few critical tricams (pink, red)
This is an old line that had not been finished. Lowe put up the first pitch, Keith Schultz got the second, and Craig Kenyon topped it out but with aid, also trending left out of the hard stuff. Parker and I straightened the line and it is classic! P1 5.9 Start 40 feet right of the regular Shoshone route on lunch ledge. You will see a crack that trends left (a slanting dihedral). Take this and climb back right at the top of the pitch to the right tree and a nice stance. P2 5.10c Climb straight up working double crack with great gear. Crux is at the bulge and has some nut trickery, but the climbing is fantastic. P3 5.11b Head straight up from belay to finger crack. Follow to base of corner/roof and immediately pull through roof to next face with more cracks (the direct finish). Pinch, jam and stem up some amazing climbing to nice belay ledge with a tree on right side. P4 5.10b Climb up and right to obvious left facing corner. Continue straight up through crux to next left facing corner and when almost to the roof, pull out of corner to the right. Above, you will have an easy 5.8ish chimney/groove that leads to the summit.
Standard Shoshone decent
Submitted by: machino on 2009-07-08
Route ID: 98902
A few additional notes. We traversed left on P3 above the roof in order to avoid the hardest climbing. The traverse lead to good, moderate crack climbing in a shallow right facing dihedral. This variation allows the entire climb to go at 10+. Protection on pitches 2, 3, and 4 is sparse but never dangerous, with the exception of pulling the final roof, which was fairly run-out. The route is still a little dirty in places, but the lichen should clean up with more traffic. Thanks to the first free ascent party for reporting this route.