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Poison Flower Direct - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Dean Towarnicki, Scott Parker
Rock (Trad)
Gear to 3" and extra wires and finger sized pieces. I also found a few critical tricams (pink, red)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5


This is an old line that had not been finished. Lowe put up the first pitch, Keith Schultz got the second, and Craig Kenyon topped it out but with aid, also trending left out of the hard stuff. Parker and I straightened the line and it is classic! P1 5.9 Start 40 feet right of the regular Shoshone route on lunch ledge. You will see a crack that trends left (a slanting dihedral). Take this and climb back right at the top of the pitch to the right tree and a nice stance. P2 5.10c Climb straight up working double crack with great gear. Crux is at the bulge and has some nut trickery, but the climbing is fantastic. P3 5.11b Head straight up from belay to finger crack. Follow to base of corner/roof and immediately pull through roof to next face with more cracks (the direct finish). Pinch, jam and stem up some amazing climbing to nice belay ledge with a tree on right side. P4 5.10b Climb up and right to obvious left facing corner. Continue straight up through crux to next left facing corner and when almost to the roof, pull out of corner to the right. Above, you will have an easy 5.8ish chimney/groove that leads to the summit.

Descent Options:

Standard Shoshone decent

Submitted by: machino on 2009-07-08
Views: 1357
Route ID: 98902

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bstory on 2010-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good route

A few additional notes. We traversed left on P3 above the roof in order to avoid the hardest climbing. The traverse lead to good, moderate crack climbing in a shallow right facing dihedral. This variation allows the entire climb to go at 10+. Protection on pitches 2, 3, and 4 is sparse but never dangerous, with the exception of pulling the final roof, which was fairly run-out. The route is still a little dirty in places, but the lichen should clean up with more traffic. Thanks to the first free ascent party for reporting this route.

Added: 2010-09-20

  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: machino on 2009-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Poison Flower Direct

A classic!

Added: 2009-04-14