Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
unknown (possibly me)
Gear up to 3.5 or 4 camalot. Lots of runners and midsize gear.
The photo should be pretty obvious. Start on a ledge beneath 2 dihedrals that face each other. The dihedrals don't reach the ground so some spicey climbing leads to a crack system that ends up in the right dihedral. Scope out a green alien/blue tcu horizontal before heading up and make sure the belayer is anchored in on the ledge. Gear is good the rest of the way though the traverse at the end of the 1st pitch to the left dihedral is also a little spicey (slab). Lower tier of the route can be bypassed but is good climbing. Upper tier basically stays on the prow where the upper pitches follow obvious crack but the first pitch of this tier is not obvious and tricky (good gear up an overhanging fingercrack/flare). The remaining climbing is classic meat and potatoes jamming, mostly hands.
Might be possible to scramble off the ridge (north) Before you top out notice a bolt rap station about 30' below the summit. You can rap from a tree (take slingage) to the bolt anchor and them do 2 long raps to the big midway ledge. Walk off from midwa
Submitted by: powerandrubber on 2008-02-03
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Route ID: 91734
Route was great! First pitch is fully protectable except for the traverse at the end, which was even scary following! Next was classic 5.9 fun jamming, third was pretty fun, fourth (5.11) was more like 5.10- with a couple of linked aid moves, fifth was awesome hand jams and the last pitch was steep with amazing hands (I hung-dogged it :/)!