Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Standard rack to #4 camalot
Hike up the gully between Innocence and Incubus and take a ledge out left onto the prow where the route begins. This bypasses approx the bottom 3rd of the tower which doesn't appear to have an obvious line (blank slabs etc). Start may or may not have a cairn but the 1st pitch goes up leftmost clean handcrack starting from ledge. (not beyond where the ledge ends) 1st pitch has a fixed pin protecting a 5.10a move and ends at a good ledge. From there you have many choices. My topo shows 2 variations. The left side var. is more quality in my opinion but more difficult. Either way watch for loose rock. Final 2 pitches are stellar thin hands with an OW pod. Look for an obvious squeeze chimney start a ways left of the prow. Other variations possible, mostly wide I think.
Rap the East face of the tower. After summiting the summit block, belay across the notch and scramble north on the right side of the ridge to a big tree with slings. 4 or 5 wandering double rope rappels get you back to the approach ledge.
For the approach, if you take the smaller gully just right of the tower expect a short 5.8 section to get you to the start ledge (has slings on a tree at the top to rap off) or just take the main gully between the two towers. Super fun hand and finger cracks, all the hard stuff is fully protectable. We bailed on the last pitch but there looked like lots of options, the offwidth scared us too much :P
We had sun on the west side of the tower all day which was nice due to a constant breeze.