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Upper Doublet NW Buttress

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About Upper Doublet NW Buttress:

5.11; 1500-1700 feet; Start of EZ route, and conecting up with the NW Buttress
Approach: Drive to the end of East Rosebud Road to the Beaten Path TH. From here hike roughly 2.5 miles until you cross a small creek with footbridge. Do not mistake this for a creek crossing with no bridge about a mile from the Trail Head. Follow this creek(Snow Lakes Drainage) up and past a beautiful waterfall with the Upper and Lower Doublets looming above. Once above the waterfall work your way up and left on the boulder fields beneath the U.D. At the very bottom, and in the middle of the face there is a very large weekness in which you will scramble up and right to get to a giant ledge spanning the whole face.(class 4) the route starts toward the right side of the face. You will see very easy(5.6) climbing leading straight up. Follow this for 3 pitches until you reach the massive "toilet bowl" feature, you will know it when you see it. It is to the left of the top of the 3rd pitch. Easy walking traverse to get to it. Follow the right dihedral past a 5.8-9 move through a small roof, and then left to a precarious but not hanging belay. You now work your way up and left into the right facing dihedral. 5.9 climbing, but with very little gear. The top of this pitch is another enormous ledge. From the ledge, walk left, then climb 10 meters straight up, and 40meters left, doing a traversing pitch under a series of roofs. Some of the moves are big, with sketchy gear, but I am 5'4" and I managed to do it. Traverse until you are directly underneath a large right-facing dihedral that looks like very easy climbing. Climb the dihedral which is suprisingly awkward up until you are just beneath a large roof. You will see a ledge up and left ten feet but don't go there. Climb directly out of the roof and straight up with sustained 5.9 climbing. The next pitch offers the hardest climbing of the route. Climb straight up towards a large roof (sustained 5.10) and the traverse under the roof to the right at 5.11. The next pitch you will work your way up the dihedral and then up and right to a belay. The following pitches go at 5.6-5.7 and are cruiser to the top. Once summited walk back on the plateau(east) for roughly .5 mile then turn directly south and walk off the plateau and down to the snow lakes. From here just hike down the creek passing the waterfall you passed on the approach.
Approach Time: 2 hr
Latitude, Longitude: 45.16267, -109.63549
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Gneiss
Type of Climbing: Big Wall
Sun Aspect: Afternoon Sun