Skip to Content

Epinephrine - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.65/5 Average Rating : 4.65 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (86)
Premier Sponsor:
Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.53/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.60/5
  Fun Factor 4.77/5

Description:

Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 4850
Route ID: 14093

Most Recent Photos (See all 21 photos)

86 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 86 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mdalby on 0000-00-00 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars na

na

Added: 2013-04-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jajen on 2012-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Stout

Kinda' thuggish - good route but not sure when I'll be back. Chimneys are a lot of grunt work!

Added: 2012-11-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snoopy138 on 2011-04-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars durp

led odd-numbered pitches

Added: 2011-04-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: kingt99 on 2010-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Epic fun I'll 2nd that

Took longer than expected. Chimneys weren't that hard just long. Start early, bring more water and food than you think.

Added: 2010-08-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome!

Still in disbelief that every single pitch on this climb was so good. The chimneys are not scary at all and only involve maybe 100-150 feet of real chimneying, the rest is classic crack climbing. You want a scary chimney go do Tunnel Vision. Took about 10.5 hours car to car and we moved at reasonable pace in great weather with no one else on the route. Descent was straightforward using Supertopo beta but I could see it being awful in the dark.

Added: 2010-06-15

... Read all 86 ascent notes