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Fiddler on the Roof - 5.10d popular

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock (Trad)
G
7
Doubles to 1.25", Singles to 2", 1.5 sets stoppers, large RPs.
800
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.80/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

One of the best routes in Black Velvet, and in the park. Sustained, engaging climbing for hundreds of feet up the perfect shield that is the right side of the velvet curtain. Start 50 yards right of DoWT/PoD at some scoops below the obvious chimney 150' up. The first bolt is about 20' up. Pitch 1: Climb up, following the bolts up, then right to the base of the chimney pitch. 120', 5.9 Pitch 2: Climb up the obvious crack to a bolt, then step left into the chimney and follow it to the belay. Watch for stuck ropes! 110', 5.9 Pitch 3: Climb up and clip a bolt, then traverse into the recessed slab with a bolt in the middle, then climb up and right out of the slab, following the crack up for 20' before traversing right again, clipping a bolt and following features straight right to belay. 120', 5.10a Pitch 4: The money pitch. Climb straight up, following bolts to a traverse left, then up again to a hanging belay. 150', 5.10d Pitch 5: Climb straight up, following bolts to a belay. 120', 5.10b Pitch 6: Climb up and left, following bolts to a shelf- traverse left, clipping a bolt, before climbing straight up to belay. 120', 5.10b Pitch 7: Climb straight up to the bolt high above, then continue up to Turkey ledge and the final station. 120', 5.9+

Descent Options:

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2010-05-04
Views: 2063
Route ID: 36829

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14 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zcooky1 on 2014-02-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars zcooky1

Awesome route, fast climbing.....if your quick you can even squeeze in 2 routes in a day since there so tightly packed together.

Added: 2014-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2010-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fantastic

one of the best routes in red rock, outstanding climbing on every pitch, with the crux pitch being pure excellence on perfect stone. take a dbl rack to green camalot, and a #1 and a #2 with a set and a half of stoppers. large RPs come in handy to mitigate some run-outs.

Added: 2010-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jut on 2007-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars p4 one of best face climbs ive ever done

this is a for sure must do. this climb is a solid 10 - i wouldn't call it an 11. p4 and p6 are phenominal. we had originally planed to do wild turkeys, but it was a gummer fest, so we opt'd for this - so glad we did. gear materializes just when you want it and its good - the route is not "very run out" - just keep a cool head. nuts and small metolius are your friends - no need to double up on anything. best route of the trip, which included levitaiton 29, epinephrine and johnny vegas to solar slab. if you're in red rocks - do this climb!

ps: this route (wall) can be descended with one rope - you will just need to traverse around a bit. we did it in 8 raps with a one 60 meter. a bit epic - but totally doable.

Added: 2007-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1999-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best climb I've done at Red Rocks

This is certainly my pick for Red Rocks. It's significantly better than Cloud Tower, Levitation 29, etc. The pitch above the traverse pitch is absolutely perfect!

Added: 2007-03-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ihuang on 2005-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Rapped off after P4 because it was getting dark. Stiff for the grade, I thought.

Added: 2005-11-25

... Read all 14 ascent notes