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Prince of Darkness - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (58)
Rock
G
Some mdeium sized nuts and a whole bunch (17-20) quickdraws. 2 ropes for descent
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.69/5
  Rock Quality 4.46/5
  Scenery 4.46/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Incredible route!!! This climb follows the left edge of a black water streak straight for 6 pitches of sustained face climbing complete with hanging belays. Although 90% of this route is bolt protected it is not a sport climb. There are a few long runouts (which can be shortened with a few extra pieces here and there) P1-5.6 Climb the right angling crack which takes good stoppers for about 75' to a 2 bolt belay. P2-5.10a Climb past 15+ bolts for close to 150 feet to a three bolt hanging belay. P3-5.10a Continue up face for 130 more feet of face climbing with a bunch of bolts and supplementary gear in at least one spot to a bolted hanging belay. P4-5.9 More face climbing past bolts to another hanging belay. P5-5.9 More face climbing and more bolts. Hanging belay. P6-5.10c Crux pitch. Thin face moves to anchors. Descent- Rappel the route with 2 ropes

Submitted by: crap on 2004-07-21
Views: 991
Route ID: 12393

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58 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2001-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun stuff

great route. lots of the same thin edging moves. With Bob Kamps.

Added: 2009-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: USnavy on 2009-03-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Same thing over and over.

The route is redundent. I dont suggest trying it in high winds.

Added: 2009-03-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2008-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Prince of Darkness

Not my best day to be sure. Just did Secret Tryst (5.11b) in Lime Kiln Canyon the day before, a very painfull limestone route. My fingers and toes were in no mood. However, it got better as the day progressed, we both enjoyed our last leads, pitches 5 and 6. Dream of Wild Turkeys is a much better route, but POD is worth doing if too many folks are on DWT. Most of my gear from .3 to 1" came in handy.

Added: 2008-10-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bnoble on 2008-03-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars ascent note

Hanging belays and unending edging make for a painful route. Worth doing, but not worth doing twice.

Added: 2008-03-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: needrock on 2007-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars prince

fun route.

Added: 2008-01-26

... Read all 58 ascent notes