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Prince of Darkness - 5.10c popular

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (67)
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Rock
G
Some mdeium sized nuts and a whole bunch (17-20) quickdraws. 2 ropes for descent
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.38/5
  Rock Quality 4.45/5
  Scenery 4.43/5
  Fun Factor 4.15/5

Description:

Incredible route!!! This climb follows the left edge of a black water streak straight for 6 pitches of sustained face climbing complete with hanging belays. Although 90% of this route is bolt protected it is not a sport climb. There are a few long runouts (which can be shortened with a few extra pieces here and there) P1-5.6 Climb the right angling crack which takes good stoppers for about 75' to a 2 bolt belay. P2-5.10a Climb past 15+ bolts for close to 150 feet to a three bolt hanging belay. P3-5.10a Continue up face for 130 more feet of face climbing with a bunch of bolts and supplementary gear in at least one spot to a bolted hanging belay. P4-5.9 More face climbing past bolts to another hanging belay. P5-5.9 More face climbing and more bolts. Hanging belay. P6-5.10c Crux pitch. Thin face moves to anchors. Descent- Rappel the route with 2 ropes

Submitted by: crap on 2004-07-21
Views: 2676
Route ID: 12393

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67 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2012-04-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I'll be back...

Had to bail after P2. We left our 2nd rope at the bottom. We had to do three raps to get down and decided to jump on a different route but I will be back!

Added: 2012-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: coryberkebile on 2010-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

I would leave the trad gear at the bottom. The runouts where you would use the gear are substantially easier (5.8-5.9) than the rest of the route. lots of quick draws.

Added: 2012-01-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: coryberkebile on 2010-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

I would leave the trad gear at the bottom. The runouts where you would use the gear are substantially easier (5.8-5.9) than the rest of the route. lots of quick draws.

Added: 2012-01-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nesta208 on 2011-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Blank Face!

Wear comfortable shoes and harness

Added: 2011-06-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars holy face climbing

a fun route. wear comfortable shoes and learn to find feet you can rest on with your heel. the second pitch is the hardest with it's enduro component. the technical crux on the 6th pitch is a fun, but too short. All belays/rap stations are hanging. Stay organized and make them as comfy as possible. I led all but the first pitch.

Added: 2011-05-03

... Read all 67 ascent notes